book review: in defense of food
why does food need to be defended?
“You read the dumbest books. Why the heck are you reading about defending food? Who thinks food is a bad idea?” said my brother as he looked at the title of the latest book I was reading. He has a point, why does food need to be defended? Journalist and author Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma and The Botany of Desire) investigates the western diet and the move toward nutritionism. He argues that we are no longer a society that eats food, but food-like substances. He points to the increasingly important role nutrients (low-fat, low-cal, high fiber etc.) has played in our diets and how our health has been negatively impacted.
He starts the book by looking at the Age of Nutritionism, from eating foods to nutrients. The take away message from this part of the book is the incredibly influential role that various food lobbys have on federal policies. Each time there were any studies conducted that pointed toward a specific prescription (for example, eat less meat), the corresponding lobby would make sure it would never see the light of day. Instead, the phrasing would read, “choose meats, poultry, and fish that will reduce saturated fat intake.” A decidedly less direct approach.
Pollan also discusses examples of how Americans are not only eating food-like substances instead of food, but are eating in such a way as to compound the negative health affects. The French, by all accounts, should also be unhealthy (lots of red meat, wine etc.) but are not. Pollan credits this to a culture that puts emphasis on enjoying food and making meal times focal points of the day. In contrast, Americans rarely actually sit down and enjoy food like the French and our health is suffering for it.
what should I be eating?
Pollan summarizes his entire message into 7 words; “Eat food. Mostly plants. Not too much.” It really doesn’t get much simpler than that. He obviously goes on to elaborate on each part of his mantra, but the inherent message is simple.
what did I take away from this book?
I read this book specifically for the second part in which Pollan discusses the details behind his “Eat food. Mostly plants. Not too much,” mantra. However, the first part in which he talks about the history of food in America, particularly in regards to nutritionism and government policy, was very interesting. It provided a great backdrop and base for the rest of the book. I especially like that you can leave this book with specific actions to take to increase your health. Suggestions like, “Don’t eat anything your great grandmother wouldn’t recognize,” and “Don’t get your fuel from the same place your car does,” add some humor to the message as well. Overall, I’m a big fan of this book and will definitely be reading Pollan’s other books.
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